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Motorcycling North (The following article appears in the 2005 edition of The MILEPOST. Thanks to Dennis Bible and Charles Earl for sharing their thoughts and experience on motorcycling to and in Alaska. Dennis has been riding motorcycles for 45 years and is currently the Goldwing Road Riders Association Alaska District Director. Writer and filmmaker Charles Earl has traveled extensively in Alaska and Canada.)
Spectacular scenery, economy and unique viewpoints make motorcycling a popular way to visit the North Country. In campgrounds, hostels, hotels, rest stops and gas stations along the way, motorcyclists meet, trade stories, offer advice and even join forces for side trips.
But while it is the adventure of a lifetime, riding through vast tracts of wilderness is demanding and requires some special preparation.
The Motorcycle
Almost every make of motorcycle-Honda, Harley, BMW, Yamaha, Buell-in every shape and size-bike, trike, sidecar-has made the trip to Alaska. Motorcycle choice is a function of rider preference. Lighter bikes are more suitable for gravel roads while larger bikes are definitely more comfortable for long highway trips. Power cruisers such as the Harley Davidson and touring bikes like the Honda Goldwing are popular choices, especially with those pulling trailers. These larger bikes are able to comfortably carry passengers and larger loads. Their weight, power and plush suspension make long, high-mile days possible.
Whichever bike you choose, be familiar with the machine and its handling when loaded.
Windshields are essential to protect riders from gravel and dust. Some bikers also use headlight shields and hand guards. A fairing, while not completely protecting you from rocks, will offer good protection against insects, rain, wind and cold. Case guards are good insurance against damage to the bike should you go down. Gravel roads are also dusty in dry weather, so consider taking a good competition air filter to improve engine performance and gas mileage. Heated handgrips are also recommended for colder temperatures. A skid plate will help protect the engine from rocks kicked up by the front wheel, and a center stand can be a great help when parking on gravel or fixing a flat or lubing a chain.
Bike Preparation
Properly preparing your machine will save you money, help keep you safe and give you peace of mind.
Before leaving, perform major maintenance such as adjusting valves, cleaning the air filter, installing a new sparkplug, checking all cables and brake pads and replacing your battery if necessary.
On the road, do your own routine maintenance. Keep up on your oil changes because rough and dusty conditions will accelerate breakdown. Bring chain lube, and keep the chain properly lubricated, but avoid over-lubing in very dirty conditions. The dirt and grit combine with the chain lube to form a sort of paste, which also accelerates wear. If your bike has a vulnerable exhaust header or cooling system, take precautions to prevent mud from clogging the radiator and causing overheating during off-road use. If you need work done on the road, call and schedule the work in advance if possible.
Fuel
As far as gas tanks go, the bigger, the better. Most large bikes average 40 miles per gallon, fully loaded. While gas is readily available on major routes, if you plan on riding in more remote areas fuel stops are few and far-between. Plan accordingly: Gas up when available and verify the distances between planned gas stops. Heavy loads, steep grades and low gears on rough roads can result in lower gas mileage. Most riders recommend filling up every 50 to 100 miles. An extra gas stop or two during the day also provides an opportunity to get off the bike and walk around for a few minutes.
Tires
Tire choice and maintenance are extremely important. Softer, more aggressive tires have more traction; harder tires last longer. Gravel roads are rough on tires, and flats are common, so start out with new tires. Rather than carrying heavy spares that create additional wear, choose harder compound, high-mileage tires that will last the entire trip, or use softer tires, and arrange in advance to have replacements waiting at a shop or shipped and held. Also, pay close attention to tire pressure. Careful airing down of tires in rough or slippery conditions can improve performance.
Gear
Pack only what you need to avoid excess weight and more wear on the motorcycle, especially the tires.
A helmet, required in British Columbia and the Yukon Territory; a rain suit; waterproof riding boots (not hiking boots or tennis shoes); tall wool or synthetic socks; warm layered clothing (synthetic preferred); riding gloves; a complete first-aid kit; sunscreen and insect repellent are necessities. Be careful of some insect repellents, as they dissolve plastics and will do permanent damage to your helmet and bike finishes, along with handlebar grips, glasses frames and the like; read the warning labels.
If you will be camping, use backpacking techniques for packing. Necessities include a waterproof 2-person tent, a sleeping pad and a lightweight, synthetic sleeping bag. For cooking, a small pot and spoon are sufficient, and lightweight, single-burner stoves that burn automotive gas are excellent. A utility tool can double as a kitchen knife. A small stainless steel vacuum bottle may also come in handy for hot or cold liquids.
Accommodations along the highway generally have areas where you can park near your room or out of sight (one Whitehorse hotel lets motorcyclists use their secure underground parking). For additional security, carry a light nylon cover to hide the bike and keep it dry.
Tools
A complete tire repair kit is essential. Also, bring a valve stem tool, a mini bicycle pump and dish soap to aid in tire changes. Other recommended tools include a 3/8" socket set, open and box end wrenches, a hex-key set and drivers for screws and fasteners. Also carry special tools such as sparkplug and spoke wrenches. A utility knife or multi-tool with pliers is also useful. For optimum self sufficiency, spare parts could include: clutch, brake and shifter levers, clutch and throttle cables, sparkplugs, fuses, bulbs and master link and cotter pins. Lubricants, tapes, connectors and fasteners might also help.
Use luggage that keeps the center of gravity low. Hard luggage is secure and waterproof. Soft luggage is light and holds up well in the event of a tip-over. A tank bag is excellent for keeping frequently used items and electronic equipment close.
The Roads
Ride slow, and enjoy the spectacular views. Road reports from other motorists help prepare riders for upcoming conditions.
"I'm always amazed at the pipeline of information available," says Bible. "Everyone has a story and wants to help the other traveler."
Some northern bridges present challenges. There are numerous narrow, 2-lane bridges built during WW II. Many have metal-grated decks that can be slippery when wet and have longitudinal grooves that tend to cause a gentle sway as you ride. Go with the sway rather than fighting it. There are also wood-deck bridges that are very slippery when wet. Again, slow down when crossing these bridges.
Ferry Travel
The Alaska Marine Highway System can save you hundreds of road miles. There is usually space for motorcycles, but make reservations if possible. The folks at the ferry terminals are helpful and will load motorcycles last, which allows you to be first to offload. This is for safety as these metal-loading surfaces and decks can be slippery when wet. Take some soft tie-down material along to secure your motorcycle during rough weather crossings. Also use the chocks and rope provided, along with the bike's center or side stand.
Rallies
Summers in Alaska are packed with motorcycle rallies, bike shows, picnics, local celebrations, organized day and multi-day rides and other events. Rallies include the Function at the Junction in Tok (July 15-17, 2005, www.goldwingsofthenorth.com), the Midnight Sun Rally in Soldotna (July 22-24, 2005, www.kenaipeninsulawings.org) and a Dual-Sport group ride from Anchorage to Dawson City during Summer Solstice.
The Reynolds-Alberta Museum in Westaskiwin, Alberta is presenting a special motorcycle display in summer 2005. Some 150 bikes will be on display, and any biker that is riding up or down Highway 2 between Edmonton and Calgary should check it out.
For other motorcycle events, visit www.abateofalaska.net, or consult the community sections in The MILEPOST®.
Bike shops
Major towns have hardware and auto parts stores. Larger cities have motorcycle dealerships. There are Harley Davidson and Buell dealerships in Wasilla, Anchorage, Soldotna, Fairbanks and on the Kenai Peninsula in Alaska, and in Smithers, BC. Local folks at these and other shops provide service, parts and helpful advice for travelers. For more information, visit www.harleyalaska.com |
